I warmed up on a cool problem thats listed as a route in Sven's book called Anarchist Crack, but is probably more apropriate as a boulder problem. There's a lot of climbs up by the Guillotine that are listed as routes in the guidebook, but are only like 20 feet tall, and woud make good boulder problems. After climbing a few other easy warm ups, and hiking around the area a bit, I decided to take a look at a couple of old school problems, The Captain's Traverse, Beer Buzz, and Martini Madness. I tried the traverse first, and despite most of the holds being pretty good, it's still pretty fucking hard. I'd like to get some beta on that one, cause I was stumped. After getting shut down on that I looked at Martini Madness and Beer Buzz, but I was rapidly losing psych. Neither of those problems looked like they were going to be very easy, so I instead decided to walk over to the sick looking roof crack Fist Fight.
I found Fist Fight pretty easily, and was really pretty surprised by how close it is to Brinton's. Pretty shocking that nobody knew it was there, but it does inspire you to keep looking around in the hopes that more gems crop up. A couple of half assed tries on Fist Fight later, I decided to walk around the talus a bit more, then come back and try Murder for Midgets. There were really lots of cool boulders, a few caves big enough to climb out of even, if only they had a couple holds on them. By the time I made it back to my pads, my enthusiasm had just about evaporated, so instead I just set my pads up and slept in the sun for an hour(or two). It was great. When I woke up it was around 5, so i packed up and went home. If only the ice cream stand were open. I can't wait for that thing to open.
2 comments:
Open on the weekends now. Clutch.
Holla!!
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